I came up with a new marking gauge design featuring a wooden cam-lock mechanism, so I decided to give it a try. First, I needed to make a groove for the ruler. By attaching sandpaper to one side of the ruler and sliding the wood along a guide, I could create a groove that fits the ruler perfectly. I also embedded magnets to prevent the ruler from slipping out and to make fine adjustments easier. I initially made the cam slightly oversized, then gradually sanded it down until I achieved just the right clamping force. I was especially happy that it made the exact clicking sound I was aiming for when released. Although this was just a prototype, it worked even better than I expected and felt perfectly practical to use. I’ve made many different marking gauges over the years, but it seems there’s still room for more new ideas!

If you’re new to woodworking, you may sometimes wonder how to cut a precise rectangular opening for installing hardware or fittings. A router is a great tool for this, but making an accurate cut freehand can be difficult. That’s where a template comes in. Once you’ve made a template, you can use it to cut the same opening accurately again and again. It’s a useful technique for everyone from beginners to professionals, even without a CNC machine. For this project, I used thin boards, so I glued an additional layer underneath to increase the thickness and durability. If you’re using thicker material, a single layer may be enough. With a bearing-guided flush-trim router bit, you can follow the template without damaging it, allowing you to reuse it for future projects. If clamps can’t reach the area you’re working on, double-sided tape or the masking tape and super glue trick can also be effective ways to secure the template.

A plug cutter is normally used to make wooden plugs, but this time I used scrap wood to create the components for a wooden hinge. I first drilled the pivot holes, then used the plug cutter to cut around them. Working in this order helped me achieve more accurate hole positioning. I connected the wooden plugs with a pin to create a hinge. This type of hinge has no protruding hardware and very little play in its movement. Similar pivot mechanisms are also used in wooden boxes, and I had been interested in exploring other applications for this design. This time, I used the hinge to make a sanding block. Magnets hold it closed, allowing the sandpaper to be stretched tightly and securely in place. Replacing the sandpaper is also easy. Sometimes, using a familiar tool in a slightly different way can open up new possibilities.

Why did I offset the two pieces of wood by the thickness of a saw blade? If you stack two pieces of wood and cut them at the same position, the saw removes material equal to the width of the cut (kerf), leaving a gap when the pieces are assembled. To prevent this, I offset the pieces by the thickness of the saw blade before cutting, compensating for the material removed. I used a saw without tooth set, so the blade thickness is almost equal to the actual kerf width. With this method, there’s no need to follow layout lines and cut each piece separately. By using a jig to make a straight cut through both pieces at once, you can reduce cutting errors and achieve a precise fit. I demonstrated this with a simple half-lap joint, but the same technique can also be applied to more complex joints, such as three-finger or five-finger joints. Finally, I reinforced the joint with wooden dowels.

Repairing a troublesome knot that extends across two faces of a piece of wood can be quite challenging. Normally, you might remove the knot and fill the hole with a wooden patch, or cut out the entire section and replace it with another piece of wood. This time, I wanted to match the grain as closely as possible, so instead of cutting tightly around the knot, I removed a slightly larger section. After test-fitting the wooden patch, I removed it and lightly tapped both faces with a hammer to compress the wood fibers. This helps prevent problems during glue-up, as moisture from the wood glue can cause slight swelling and make a tight-fitting patch difficult to insert. In the end, I achieved a tight, gap-free fit. However, matching the grain naturally was still challenging, reminding me once again how difficult wood repair can be.

Installing a door lever handle can be surprisingly straightforward. This one uses a tubular latch, which is relatively easy to install with just a drill and a chisel, without any specialized machinery. There are also more durable mortise lock designs, but they require a larger recess, making installation with hand tools more challenging. One small tip: In the video, I drill the hole for the handle spindle partway through the process, but it’s better to drill it first for a smoother workflow.

tried making a hexagonal puzzle-like structure that comes apart when spun. It’s made from 12 identical wooden pieces, forming three identical interlocking units. You can’t assemble them one at a time. All three must slide toward the center simultaneously. I originally wanted to use this structure to create a small hidden storage space, but after building it, I realized the design makes that difficult. Some things you only discover once you actually try making them. Can you think of any other interesting uses for this structure?

Thank you for always watching my videos☺️ A new long-form video is now available on YouTube! This time, I’ve put together 4 of my recent DIY woodworking projects, including previously unseen footage and additional details that weren’t fully covered in the Shorts. Hope you enjoy it!

I’ve made many different marking gauges over the years, and when it comes to appearance, I still think brass screws look the most elegant. However, when a metal screw presses directly against a ruler, it inevitably leaves marks or scratches on the surface. Honestly, it might not be something worth worrying about too much. The problem could also be solved by adding something to the tip of the screw or placing a thin protective piece between the screw and the ruler. But since I’ve made wooden screws before, I thought it would be interesting to try making a marking gauge that could hold the ruler without scratching it. The grain direction I chose works well for cutting threads, but it also makes the screw weaker. To compensate, I reinforced the center with a bamboo skewer. I hadn’t decided on a shape for the knob, but I thought it might be fun to make it look like a butterfly key, a familiar shape in woodworking. So that’s what I went with.

This phone stand is one of my original designs, and I’m happy that so many people have made their own versions. This time, I made it again using mostly hand tools, including the folding Dozuki saw from Temple Tool. Its unique Demon-Tooth pattern allows for rip cuts, crosscuts, and diagonal cuts, making it one of my favorite saws. I took a slightly slower approach this time so you can enjoy the sounds of woodworking with hand tools.