Fraser Ferguson

This is true. When your grandmother bought Pringle and Ballantyne knitwear, the world was very different. For much of the 20th century, Scottish knitwear was considered the best in the world. In Border towns such as Hawick and Innerleithen, an entire industry of spinners, knitters, and finishing houses converted Central and East Asian cashmere into durable knitwear that could be passed down for generations. These places were often union shops paying employees similar wages and using similar technologies, so the qualities coming out of them were fairly comparable, which is to say, all high-end. But over time, the world changed, and Scottish producers could no longer compete. The Italians were better at making softer, more fashionable knitwear, which consumers saw as luxury. Chinese producers made cheaper knitwear, which appealed to more budget-conscious consumers. Scottish cashmere sweaters are often produced with what's known as a "bare finish" quality, meaning the sweaters aren't heavily milled (i.e., washed) in the finishing process. Washing makes a sweater softer, but it also breaks down the yarns, making them more likely to pill. As the world equated softness with "quality," many consumers didn't understand why they should pay hundreds of dollars for a sweater that wasn't as soft as something they could find for a fraction of the price. Plus, the styles were not at the bleeding edge of fashion. Over time, many of these Scottish producers closed. When your grandmother bought her sweaters, Pringle and Ballantyne still owned their own manufacturing facilities, but those operations were shuttered and the brand names sold to other entities. Today, Pringle and Ballantyne effectively operate as brands trading on their heritage, but the manufacturing is done offshore. Producing something outside Scotland isn't necessarily bad, but the operations are different. Below, I've attached two videos. The first is a short documentary of the Pringle facility, where your grandmother's sweater was likely made. The second shows the dismantling of the Carlee Mill in 2013—just one of the many facilities that have shuttered over the years. Many of these manufacturing facilities were over a hundred years old when they closed. This is partly why I disagree with Quince's business model. When you suggest that your $60 cashmere knits are comparable to those on the higher end of the market, you make it difficult for consumers to understand what they're truly buying. Fashion writers also have a responsibility to educate consumers on the real dimensions of quality, rather than constantly talking about celebrities, trends, and such. There are still some great Scottish producers left standing, among them Begg & Co, Scott & Charters, Johnstons of Elgin, Hawico, and William Lockie (the last being my favorite). They continue to make high-quality, traditional knitwear that I think is worth buying.