Enrique Rodriguez

I couldn't disagree more. I think the King of Spain is the last high-profile figure who knows how to wear classic tailored clothing. The outfit you're talking about is a perfect example. Back when I was on a menswear forum, there were a few recurring debates that lasted for decades. Among them was the issue of navy odd trousers. In tailoring, the term "odd" refers to a garment that's designed to be worn with something cut from a different cloth. A suit, of course, is an outfit composed of a jacket made to be worn with pants cut from the same fabric. But an "odd jacket," also known as a sport coat, is meant to be worn with pants cut from a different material. Thus, "odd trousers" refers to the same idea. Navy odd trousers were endlessly debated on the forum. In this sense, I share Michael Anton's opinion: if you want a truly classic look, it's hard to wear navy odd trousers with a tailored jacket. The reasons aren't well understood, even among guys who spend their lives thinking about this kind of superficial thing. Michael once suggested it might be because only the lower working classes wore their blue serge suit pants without their matching jacket, so the look took on a negative connotation during a time when the bourgeoisie still set the rules for respectable culture (thankfully, we no longer live in such a world). However, a few narrow exceptions exist. It was agreed that navy pants, if you must wear them, work best in the summer. Additionally, if you want to wear them with a tailored jacket, they work best with a cream colored sport coat. This is confirmed by Apparel Arts, the leading menswear publication of the early 20th century. It was a trade publication sent to high-end clothiers and tailors, so they could advise customers on how to dress. In one issue, we see a man reclining on the beach, his straw hat and sunglasses by his side. He's wearing a pair of navy odd trousers with a tan jacket. To outsiders, this sort of exegesis can seem ridiculous — and it is, to a large extent. But for men truly passionate about classic men's dress, looking at old photos of men such as Cary Grant and Gary Cooper, supplemented with key books and copies of Apparel Arts, is widely considered the best way to understand a visual language largely lost to time. (This issue recently came up on Twitter, as someone on here who presents himself as a lover of classic men's style often says that you should never forgo socks. However, this isn't supported by the historical evidence. There are plenty of examples of historically well-dressed men, including Cary Grant and Gary Cooper, forgoing socks. IMO, by caring about these historical images and texts, you can stop yourself from being just a knee-jerk reactionary.) Being guided in this way doesn't mean you have to emerge in historical cosplay. In the third photo, we see a friend of mine in a cream colored sport coat with a striped dress shirt and navy linen odd trousers. To me, his outfit looks natural and contemporary, yet still adheres to this classic tradition. This friend was with me on the forum, so he also knows about all these discussions. I doubt the King of Spain was on a menswear forum. I suspect he only has a limited interest in clothing. He probably knows how to communicate certain things to his tailor, but he's not reading 1930s issues of Apparel Arts. Yet, he seems to possess an almost innate understanding of this aesthetic. To me, that's a very wonderful thing — a man who is aided by a lifelong relationship with a bespoke tailor, dresses beautifully, and yet likely puts very little thought into the subject. The effect comes off as natural and effortless elegance.